Time for new Brake Pads
This is a discussion on Time for new Brake Pads within the Mercedes-Benz CLA45 AMG forums, part of the Mercedes-Benz CLA Model Specific Forums category; I'm at 40k miles but never got my rotors changed yet. I did have multiple OEM brake pad changes under warranty due to squeaking so ...
I'm at 40k miles but never got my rotors changed yet. I did have multiple OEM brake pad changes under warranty due to squeaking so that saved me some $$
2015 CLA 45 AMG
2014 CLS 63 AMG S-Model
while the captain is pondering ... how do you use your brakes?
Originally Posted by coder
the rate at which you push the pedal, especially the first 10mm of travel, determines the nonlinear rate at which pressure is applied to the system and depending on the driving conditions and what the car senses (wheel rate, accelerometers, pitch, yaw, roll, etc etc etc) the rotors get "slammed" on instead of "feathered" on which of course means a nonlinear localization of heating/annealing of the metal matrix which is probably not cryo treated so misaligned molecules go all over the place and create random densification at the surfaces leading to the dreaded pulsing etc etc all the usual bs ... well at least to first order as there's a lot more going on ... dont you just hate chemistry? 8-)
i had a set of cryo treated rotors once ... lovely items never warped no matter what i did ... gosh i want those back
I do not drive aggressively. Commute a couple of hours a day, that's it. Try to minimize my fuel consumption, so keep it under 70mph most of the time.
If I brake, I usually do it gently . I do not think it is my wild driving habits that cause my brake (rotor) problems .
Climate? I live in the North East US ( New England) . Maybe the temperature swings bring out the warping more,
over time. I used to drive by a machine shop that did a great job resurfacing rotors, so I was able to alternate
2 sets (one set is resurfaced and ready to go, the other on the car) but I no longer drive thru that area.
I am really getting tired of replacing the rotors every year, sometimes 2x a year.
Mine started the pulsating at 7,000 miles and the dealer said it was because I drive to hard. It made me laugh. I drive back and forth to work in it. They suggested I replace them at the tune of $800 for just the front pads and rotors. I said no thanks. I will replace them in time but I am at 19,000 now and the only time I feel the pulsation is when getting off the interstate.
2015 CLA 250
Sport Package, Premium Package I and Bi-Xeon Headlights and LED Tails
If you folks are nice to your brake pedal then it may just be poor batches of rotors ... but getting them often? something sounds fishy
I notice that the pulsation is worse when the rotors are warmed up. When I get on the highway after the car was sitting
for a while, I barely notice it. I think this points to warping , rather than surface /thickness variations.
(I think warping would be more aggravated by temperature)
BTW I hand-torque the lugs to 90 foot pounds.
Of course I do not have any issue for the first 10k (sometimes 20k) miles after I swap the rotors.
Out of the different brands I have tried, the Brembos worked best. I got 22K miles out of those.
Maybe I should try the current OEM brands next (Zimmerman). People that report the
50K trouble free performance run Zimmermans, correct?
Last edited by coder; 02-13-2019 at 06:33 AM.
I live in CA also and the House of Import dealer in Brea quoted me $500 for front brake pad change with rotor. Took my car to Harbor and Tire shop on Harbor and Trask and they replaced the performance rotor with ceramic pads for $200. Hope this help for you.
my oem zimms are at ~22k / oem ferodos at ~10mm (F) / think this system will go another 10~20k w/o issue (fingers crossed!!)
as for "warping" ... even the most crudely cast rotors will maintain dimensional stability if heated and cooled "uniformly"
the problem is this is a tough act in real life ... come down from a HARD stop and the rotors are steaming but then the pads are held against the rotor so the pads+caliper system extracts heat as expected and sure enough that part of the rotor cools differentially from the rest and voila over time with repeated such stops there goes the rotor
the only way to avoid this is either (a) drive with the gas pedal only which is really fun or (b) feather the brake pedal regardless of situation which means anticipating traffic and lights and pedestrians and solar flares and idiots etc ... my antilock has taken over only twice so far in 5 yrs so i have been lucky ... 8-)
$200 per axle for rotor, pads and labor is pretty darn good.
Costs me as much just in parts.
$200 would be an OK price just for pads and labor, including
resurfacing the rotors with a brake lathe, while on the car.
Just the pads cost $50-$100 a pair,
Hopefully they do a good job.
(Often, even good mechanics fail to check and re-grease the sliding pins,
or clean the caliper carrier bracket slots)
Last edited by coder; 02-14-2019 at 07:06 AM.
That's absurd - I live in Portland Maine, have owned my car 3 years (22k miles now has 61k), purchased with new brakes & have yet to replace any of them.
Something isn't right if you have to replace the rotors 1-2x per year. Are you using genuine MB parts or skimping for budget?
Originally Posted by coder