Oil change leak PLEASE HELP!!
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Oil change leak PLEASE HELP!!

This is a discussion on Oil change leak PLEASE HELP!! within the CLA Problems/Issues/Complaints forums, part of the Mercedes-Benz CLA Forum category; Hello fellow benz owners, I had recently purchased a 2015 Mercedes CLA 250, and had driven it about 500-600 km as then I had received ...

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Thread: Oil change leak PLEASE HELP!!

  1. #1
    Newbie amitd7's Avatar
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    Oil change leak PLEASE HELP!!

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    Hello fellow benz owners,

    I had recently purchased a 2015 Mercedes CLA 250, and had driven it about 500-600 km as then I had received the notification of change oil on the dash.

    Reading throughout these forums and watching a lot of videos of the oil change I had thought i known what to do. I had done the following

    1. Take off splash guard
    2. Take off engine oil and dipstick
    3. Used a 13mm to unplug the drain plug
    4. I let the oil drain into a pan (i disposed of this oil at a canadian tire)
    5. I unscrewed the oil filter and removed the 3 gaskets and old filter and lubricated heavily the 3 gaskets and put them in their corresponding spots & put the new filter in
    6. I screwed on the oil filter
    7. Put drain plug back with the washer that was there
    8. Put new oil in the car castrol 5-30w
    9. I started up the car and went to see for leaks.....

    At step 9 is where the issue came.. (please see photos) the oil is leaking HEAVILY , not drips, but HEAVY HEAVY leaks once the car starts and only stops when I turn off the car. It is leaking BEHIND where I unscrewed the drain plug like behind the drain pan.. I didn't unscrew ANYTHING behind there or anything close to it. I even checked my drain plug if that was the problem of the leak and it is NOT. NO oil comes from the drain plug when I tighten it but it comes from behind the drain pan area like behind the silver box holding all the oil...

    Could anyone please throw any help my way..? This was my first and only car I have and its been out of service for 2 weeks.. I was ashamed to ask for help as everyone said changing oil is such an easy thing but I have no other option to resort to here... please leave any comments or feedback on how to fix this :/

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    Newbie mbsang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by amitd7 View Post
    7. Put drain plug back with the washer that was there
    Sorry, I cannot help you much, but I believe the washer should be replaced every time you "unplug" the drain plug.
    This could be an issue, but you said you already double checked...

    Also, I use mityvac to suck out oil from the top, and never touch the bottom... It was a lot easier.
    JustSynthetic.com likes this.
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    Rookie JustSynthetic.com's Avatar
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    I could not tell from the pics what I was looking at? Whats the results.. The filter cap is my only thought? backside, just changed, maybe a o-ring got off track?

    I use vacuum as well, but can still be a big leak if filter housing is off camber or o-rings..

    Details????

    Mike
    Michael G.

    Independent Amsoil Dealer - 800-956-5695 M-F 7am-7pm CST Referral #1339879

    Savannah, GA

    __________________________________________________ ______

    2014 CLA250 White Sport, Prem 1, MultiM, and Amsoil

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    Looks like the pictures are upside down.

    Shows no leaks around the that the drain plug , and a puddle of oild on the ground. the 2nd picture has some indication
    that the "back" of the drain pan ( towards the tail of the car) shows some oil.

    This is a x-post, there is another thread for it, with more replies.

    The OP indicates that he used a fair bit of force when tightening the filter cap. The cap itself could be mis-threaded or cracked,
    or the attachment point of the oil filter housing could be damaged. The filter housing is attached to the engine block using a
    singe long bolt, Given enough force tightening the cap, I think that attachment could be damaged.

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    jmc
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    Come to think of it ... its a hex head on the filter cap which has rubber seals during the thread on phase
    If the o rings were dry or the thread start was off it could be cross threaded which would scrape off some thread debris and lodge around the o ring causing leak paths
    Though that would most probably also mean a cracked housing

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