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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ive been planning to a car audio build ever since I bought my CLA. So far my plan is to use the factory radio. Most of the parts are from my prior vehicle.
Equipment:
Alpine H800+C800
Alpine PDX-V9
Scan Speak Revelator 18w mids
Scan Speak D3004 tweeters
Fountek FR89EX center speaker
Alpine Type R flat subwoofer
Random small amp for center speaker.

At the moment, all of the wiring has been has been completed and this car was possibly the easiest car to run wire though. The factory wire guides on either side of the of the car easily accepts 0AWG wire and just about anything else. The factory rubber firewall grommet makes wiring though the firewall a breeze

I am going to do minimal sound dampening because the car is quiet enough as it is. But we'll see. Im going to reserve most of the dampening for the front doors.

This build might take a while as the car is my daily driver and I have to reasonably get it back to stock for the work week.

Main battery fuse.


Factory grommet. The picture is obviously before I poked the 0awg wire through and little wire is for my radar system. The weird thing is, I wanted to buy a backup grommet but the dealer couldn't look up the part number, I also had no success looking that PN online :/


My original plan was to mount the processor and amp under the rear deck. But after removing the factory sub module and speaker Im considering mounting them on top of the rear deck.








Mocked up



I'll add more pictures from time to time when I work on car....
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Notice that the pre-collision brain is mounted on the rear deck. I don't have this option so I guess all of our cars come prewired. One of the connector connects to a dummy sensor lol

I would love to re-locate it because It might interfere with the amp and processor but afraid it mess something up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Mock up with rear deck in place.
Fits perfectly but I'll have to tape up the logos because they light up when on



 

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Discussion Starter #4
I was able to securely mount the amp + processor and compete the wiring on the rear deck...





There is a conveniently placed hallow rail with holes large enough so I can pass the power, ground and remote wires though, which are protected with added rubber grommets. The fuse block will be directly underneath the rail.





Rear deck goes back on and no one will every know theres anything aftermarket underneath





I will complete the fuse block install and add small amp for the center speaker next week.

So far, I'm happy to say that at this point I have yet to modify anything and everything can be put back to stock.
 

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Man that going to be nice! Props on the work! keep them pics coming cant wait to see the finished product!
 

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very clean. great job
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I had some family and friends over this weekend, so I didn't get too much done...

Bracket for center channel amp. The board is made of 1/2 plywood & MDF and the brackets are made of 1.5" x 0.125" steel strips


Tight fit but works perfectly. Again, I am using up space that would normally not be used. Both brackets utilize factory bolts or holes


With the trunk liner re-installed. I still have space for the manual and my little tool bag that I usually keep there.



Power wires entering the channel that eventually goes to the fuse and ground blocks. Again, protected with a rubber grommet


Fuse/ground blocks. I will eventually make a panel to cover these.



This is my first major modification - the ground
Factory adhesive and paint removed.


Rivet nut



Modified terminal


Finished ground.




At this point most of the basic work has been completed. Only custom work from now on.
A-pillar tweeters then door mounted woofers are next in that order and finally the sub.
 

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I had some family and friends over this weekend, so I didn't get too much done...

Bracket for center channel amp.

At this point most of the basic work has been completed. Only custom work from now on.
A-pillar tweeters then door mounted woofers are next in that order and finally the sub.
Good work, one question and one suggestion...

What kind of tuning are you going to do, I see your DSP has power for both of best worlds, Movie Theater 5.1 and Front stage, what is your goal, watch movies or pure SQ in music in stereo? I could guess your doing a 5.1 because you are going after the Center Channel option.

Suggestion... if you pick the sail panels for tweeters instead of the A-pillars, you will obtain a wider stage and less reflexions from the windshield that tend to skew your image. But everything is relative to your x-over points and slopes between tweeter and mid/bass.


D.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Good work, one question and one suggestion...

What kind of tuning are you going to do, I see your DSP has power for both of best worlds, Movie Theater 5.1 and Front stage, what is your goal, watch movies or pure SQ in music in stereo? I could guess your doing a 5.1 because you are going after the Center Channel option.

Suggestion... if you pick the sail panels for tweeters instead of the A-pillars, you will obtain a wider stage and less reflexions from the windshield that tend to skew your image. But everything is relative to your x-over points and slopes between tweeter and mid/bass.


D.
The center is purely for ambience and for experimental purposes. I've never had a center channel where I could tune if needed. Perhaps it promotes a more stable center image. I still have no idea what to expect from a center.
Not going 5.1 at all. The factory rear speakers will be disconnected once the new speakers go in.
In fact, one of the only reasons why I chose the H800 because it has the option for center, otherwise I have used my Pioneer P99.

I thought about going to sail panels but I experimented in the past and never liked it. In a-pillar setups you can easily move and point the speakers any way you want. You have much more freedom on mounting location. Sails? You're stuck with what HK gave you, as far as location.
Also, there are some physical limitations to the location the factory sail. I have the dash topper option and it goes right up to where the tweeter would fit. The dash topper in addition to the trim on the top of the door panel and the a-pillar will cause a triangle of reflections. Will I hear these reflections? Not tonally but center focus might suffer.

The sail panel it self is also a bit too small to house the Scan tweeters. I don't really want to modify them as they are pretty costly to replace. I can easily fiberglass over the a-pillar hole and put fabric over if I ever want to put the car back to stock, I dont quite have that option if I modded the sail.
If I had smaller tweeters I would experiment with sail and go from there.
 

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Ok, so you are doing a Front stage 1 or 2 seats? from what I read above 1 seat, right?

I have the P99 in my CLA, it's a good DSP the only downside is you can't hide it!

Yes you have more freedom with tweeters in a-pillars but physical locations reduces stage width, that's a fact just measure the distance between a-pillars and compare with sail panels.

What really matters is the direct signal from left tweeter to your left ear, the further to the left the wider your stage, also depends on your x-over settings, and since you are doing a 2 way probably you will be crossing them pretty low covering most of the Interaural Intensity Difference (IID) - where localization determined based on the intensity of a sound arriving at each ear also known as Interaural Level Difference (ILD), anyway it's up to you and you can experiment, everybody hears different and what I like you may not, I'm cool with that.

Any reflection will affect center image that is why a car is the worst place for a high end sound system. The tweeter Mercedes install in the sail panel is very clever and efficient and it's almost direccional avoiding glass reflections. I would use them before trying something else, you may like them.

D.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Didn't get a whole lot done this weekend but I quickly cut a couple of rings for the speakers.
Everything was cut with a router, a circle jig and a router table.

The beginnings of the tweeter mounts.






5/8" roundover


These rings will be fiberglassed into the a-pillars


I have yet to remove the factory door speakers and have no idea what the allowable depth is, so I made a pair 3/4" spacer baffles for the woofers. IIRC, when I applied some sound deadening to the door skins the factory speaker has an integrated spacer thats about an 1". I'll add more rings if needed.




Center speaker plate. I wanted something thicker but there really isn't much space underneath the grill. I'll probably fiberglass it to stiffen the baffle.



Chamfered rear baffle to increase air flow





A-pillars next week. ;)
 

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I'm really enjoying following your audio upgrade build. Looking forward to the next steps and especially the final outcome. Good luck.

"Your mileage may vary"
 

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Yeah me too, keep up the good work.

I'm interested in your DSP software and how interacts with users,

I like the Bit 10D software but I don't like the fact that I need a computer for tuning. I'm hoping yours will be more friendly user.




D.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
file info.JPG

I've only had time to browse through the screens on the computer. Looks like the Audsion's UI is simpler. Alpine uses multiple windows. Although it might make it faster to assess TA, EQ or Xovers because you can have all 3 or so screens open at one time, it can get confusing. I guess I'll have to spend more time with it.
I hope the C800 is as easy to use as the old C700/701.
 

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Yes the Bit10D might be simple but it's so hard to read in a laptop, even adjusting the resolution it's hard to click on little tiny squares.


D.
 
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