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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I hope everyone is doing well.

My eco start/stop recently stopped working (no longer turning green) and I sent my car to the dealership. They told me the auxiliary battery needed replacement. However they quoted me quite expensive: $220 for the auxiliary battery and $600 for the main battery. Although the main battery was not needed to be replaced, but I asked anyway for future reference. My car is no longer on warranty, the dealership here only offers 2 years or 50 000km, sadface.

To more experienced owners in this forum. I have few questions- If I were to replace the batteries outside the dealership, can I replace them directly like any regular car or does CLA45 needs extra tweaking before hand? I'm just afraid or paranoid they might mess the electronic system. Sorry this is my first time owning a new car hehe.

Thanks!
 

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Also my eco start/stop recently stopped working, only the main battery is replaced in warranty (the 23e month) and the system is working properly at the moment...
don't want to buy a new battery each 2 years :icon_eek:
 

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1 - there are now several threads on this issue ... consider avoiding unnecessary battery drains (eg make sure everything is OFF before ignition AND shutdown) and use a good battery maintainer when parked at home if at all possible.
2 - one can simply replace the aux battery with a similar sized unit (12AH or slightly better) ... though the jury is still out if subsequent system recode is necessary ... unless a 12V bypass is used during replacement (to cheat the system) *BUT* the tiniest mishap could cause a short and there goes the car, period.
 

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WIll the car run without the recode, and is it significantly cheaper for the dealer to only do a recode while Eshan replaces the battery on his own?
 

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WIll the car run without the recode, and is it significantly cheaper for the dealer to only do a recode while Eshan replaces the battery on his own?
Not certain ... any willing guinea pigs? ??
I dunno ... so many critical things tied to an aux battery (which most cars dont have) kinda silly and freaky
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all the replies guys.

So, I am thinking just replacing the secondary battery at the dealer. However does that mean it is less riskier to change the main battery outside the dealership? The main battery is significantly more expensive to change at the dealer.

From what I can understand from discussions above, only the second battery needs a recode. Is that correct? Thanks
 

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Thanks for all the replies guys.

So, I am thinking just replacing the secondary battery at the dealer. However does that mean it is less riskier to change the main battery outside the dealership? The main battery is significantly more expensive to change at the dealer.

From what I can understand from discussions above, only the second battery needs a recode. Is that correct? Thanks
I for one am not sure if a recoding is necessary for the aux battery ... guess you will find out at the dealer. Hope it's a warranty fix!

As for the main battery, sure, get a new Varta identical to the oem unit and replace away ... just be careful not to short stuff out, and reset the windows afterwards (among other things). There may be alternative 80~90Ah batteries (e.g. Bosch) of similar size. But the Varta batteries are pretty darn good if you take care of them.
 

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I simply took old starter battery out and put new in for FREE. What codes you all talking about ???:)
all radio station were back as normal.
There is only one bolt you ll need to unscrew on the left side of the battery outside of that container you ll need to unscrew to lift the battery out.
its not bugatit or mclaren p1.
C
 

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I simply took old starter battery out and put new in for FREE. What codes you all talking about ???:)
all radio station were back as normal.
There is only one bolt you ll need to unscrew on the left side of the battery outside of that container you ll need to unscrew to lift the battery out.
its not bugatit or mclaren p1.
C
We are surmising recoding may be necessary for the aux battery not the primary.
For your primary replacement did your windows need resetting?
 

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not sure.
I set up right mirror to go down when i am in reverse so i done hit the curbs and its still working after replacing the battery.
c
 

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not sure.
I set up right mirror to go down when i am in reverse so i done hit the curbs and its still working after replacing the battery.
c
Seems the aux battery covers various low draw systems like user setting memories etc. Makes sense. Also probably explains why some have noted recoding may needed when changing the aux battery. Still think a parallel 12V supply solves that ... like I ran fake grounds while messing with the primary ground wire. That worked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi all sorry for the lack of updates.

I went to the dealer for service B, the noticed the battery was already weak right away.

They recommended me to just replace the main battery, that costed me about $500 with labour charge.

And yes, start stop function is back alive now.
 

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Hi all sorry for the lack of updates.

I went to the dealer for service B, the noticed the battery was already weak right away.

They recommended me to just replace the main battery, that costed me about $500 with labour charge.

And yes, start stop function is back alive now.
What? $500? Isnt your warranty still on?
 

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What? $500? Isnt your warranty still on?
its really only $300 USD, if you do the currency conversion, which if you assme the battery is around $200 + $100 for labour, it all makes sense.
 

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Oh ... duh ... not too bad then
Is there some special tool to replace the main battery or something? Isn’t it just unplug the old one and plug the new one back on? Should take less than 5 minutes... $100 in labor?
 

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Is there some special tool to replace the main battery or something? Isn’t it just unplug the old one and plug the new one back on? Should take less than 5 minutes... $100 in labor?
Well they bill in half hour increments or something silly like that.....
They may have to reset a few systems after main power loss, verify the charging system (if under warranty replacement) etc
But disconnecting is just a 10mm wrench and a strong back!! That thing is like 47~50lbs.
 
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