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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am seeking out buying the parts below for my 2014 CLA to save some money so wondering on some suggestions on a good place to get parts perhaps?

Also I took my car to a break specialist (third party) and they said my back rotors were completely fine as I only have 51k miles on the car & not a heavy breaker, do I trust the dealership? also open to suggestions on better parts other than OEM for the listed below

I am a little naïve when it comes to this stuff so any directions is appreciated!
Task/Observations
Recommendation
Estimate
RECOMMEND REPLACING INTAKE AIR TUBE​
$149.00​
Task: Inspect air cleaner element
Observation: Found air filter excessively dirty​
Replace air filter​
$174.00​
Task: Measure rear brake lining thickness
Observation: 1 mm​
Replace rear brake pads and replace rear brake rotors​
$742.00​
Task: Inspect sway bar components
Observation: Found sway-bar link(s) excessively worn/loose​
Replace both front sway-bar links​
$412.01​
 

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2016 CLA 250 2.0L 4matic
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If you don't mind spending 15-30mins opening your air filter housing and vacuuming out any debris, you can buy an OEM filter for much cheaper than MB would charge you to replace it. Heck, you could even get a performance filter from K&N for less than half the price MB charges. It's a fairly easy job that only requires a screwdriver with a Torx bit:

Filter Replacement Video

As for the other 2 maintenance items, you can probably get them done for much cheaper by buying the parts and taking it to a 3rd party shop that you trust.

Hope this helps!
 

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There are some parts you should get original mercedes parts, and there are others, you can get oem parts from reputable brands.

For example, you can get replacement brake rotors from brands like Brembo , raybestos , for way less than mercedes factory parts. Air filters, cabin filters, same thing , after market oem will do just fine, cost way less too. For brake pads, I have learned that to ensure you don't get the squealing noise , get original mercedes brake pads.

check out rockauto.com , very reasonable prices for very good reliable parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If you don't mind spending 15-30mins opening your air filter housing and vacuuming out any debris, you can buy an OEM filter for much cheaper than MB would charge you to replace it. Heck, you could even get a performance filter from K&N for less than half the price MB charges. It's a fairly easy job that only requires a screwdriver with a Torx bit:

Filter Replacement Video

As for the other 2 maintenance items, you can probably get them done for much cheaper by buying the parts and taking it to a 3rd party shop that you trust.

Hope this helps!
This is great, I can definitely replace the air filter and the video is perfect.. thank you for your help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
There are some parts you should get original mercedes parts, and there are others, you can get oem parts from reputable brands.

For example, you can get replacement brake rotors from brands like Brembo , raybestos , for way less than mercedes factory parts. Air filters, cabin filters, same thing , after market oem will do just fine, cost way less too. For brake pads, I have learned that to ensure you don't get the squealing noise , get original mercedes brake pads.

check out rockauto.com , very reasonable prices for very good reliable parts.
Very helpful, I will take your advice and buy third party except for the break pads..Thank you!!
 

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I am seeking out buying the parts below for my 2014 CLA to save some money so wondering on some suggestions on a good place to get parts perhaps?

Also I took my car to a break specialist (third party) and they said my back rotors were completely fine as I only have 51k miles on the car & not a heavy breaker, do I trust the dealership? also open to suggestions on better parts other than OEM for the listed below

I am a little naïve when it comes to this stuff so any directions is appreciated!

Task/Observations
Recommendation
Estimate
RECOMMEND REPLACING INTAKE AIR TUBE​
$149.00​
Task: Inspect air cleaner element
Observation: Found air filter excessively dirty​
Replace air filter​
$174.00​
Task: Measure rear brake lining thickness
Observation: 1 mm​
Replace rear brake pads and replace rear brake rotors​
$742.00​
Task: Inspect sway bar components
Observation: Found sway-bar link(s) excessively worn/loose​
Replace both front sway-bar links​
$412.01​
You can get an air filter for 50$ or less.
Rear brake rotor maybe 200$ and 100$ for pads. 1 hour for labor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you don't mind spending 15-30mins opening your air filter housing and vacuuming out any debris, you can buy an OEM filter for much cheaper than MB would charge you to replace it. Heck, you could even get a performance filter from K&N for less than half the price MB charges. It's a fairly easy job that only requires a screwdriver with a Torx bit:

Filter Replacement Video

As for the other 2 maintenance items, you can probably get them done for much cheaper by buying the parts and taking it to a 3rd party shop that you trust.

Hope this helps!
Do these parts look right? Not sure about the sway bar parts though, thanks ahead of time for your assistance

Product Rectangle Font Material property Parallel
 

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just make sure those parts fit your CLA model. The std vs sports package equipped CLA has quite different spec'd components.
 

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FCPEuro is a decent source for standard parts
Though Rock does indeed have listings now for the c117
 

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I am seeking out buying the parts below for my 2014 CLA to save some money so wondering on some suggestions on a good place to get parts perhaps?

Also I took my car to a break specialist (third party) and they said my back rotors were completely fine as I only have 51k miles on the car & not a heavy breaker, do I trust the dealership? also open to suggestions on better parts other than OEM for the listed below

I am a little naïve when it comes to this stuff so any directions is appreciated!
Task/Observations
Recommendation
Estimate
RECOMMEND REPLACING INTAKE AIR TUBE​
$149.00​
Task: Inspect air cleaner element
Observation: Found air filter excessively dirty​
Replace air filter​
$174.00​
Task: Measure rear brake lining thickness
Observation: 1 mm​
Replace rear brake pads and replace rear brake rotors​
$742.00​
Task: Inspect sway bar components
Observation: Found sway-bar link(s) excessively worn/loose​
Replace both front sway-bar links​
$412.01​
Try looking for what you need here.
or
 

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Go to independent shop
Just had air filter replacement: parts 36.38, labor 25.60, total $61.98
Cabin filter: parts 62, labor 64, total $126
Oil change: $131.32
Forget dealership altogether....big ripoff!
 

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Go to independent shop
Just had air filter replacement: parts 36.38, labor 25.60, total $61.98
Cabin filter: parts 62, labor 64, total $126
Oil change: $131.32
Forget dealership altogether....big ripoff!
Why did you need an independent shop to replace the air filter, cabin filter? Those are the easiest parts to replace.
Also the prices you paid for them is a rip off. Go to Rockauto and you will find the oem parts for 50% discount.
If you DIY, you could have the air filter and cabin filter done for < $50.

For the oil change, go to walmart, get the mobil 1 0W40 for < $30, and should probably only cost you < $50 to change it out. Total cost < $100
 

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Well oil change may not be possible for everyone cuz at least a cheapy extraction pump is needed (to avoid buying jack pads and getting underneath so ~$60) ... then of course low cost mobil1 at walmart (~$23) and oem filter from ebay or rock (~$10) though ebay is free ship and then need a 27mm socket (~$5) and a low range torque wrench (~$20) from say hft
Now air filter change is literally a few minutes and a fancy torx driver (~$5) plus a vacuum cleaner (then use saved funds for a good high flow washable filter ~$60)
The cabin filter requires a little gymnastics though is just peeling back carpet unsnapping 2 tabs pull out old one push in new one resnap tabs put back carpet (use saved funds for a good antimicrobial element ~$40)
All presuming on starts with nothing no tools etc
 

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Well oil change may not be possible for everyone cuz at least a cheapy extraction pump is needed (to avoid buying jack pads and getting underneath so ~$60) ... then of course low cost mobil1 at walmart (~$23) and oem filter from ebay or rock (~$10) though ebay is free ship and then need a 27mm socket (~$5) and a low range torque wrench (~$20) from say hft
Now air filter change is literally a few minutes and a fancy torx driver (~$5) plus a vacuum cleaner (then use saved funds for a good high flow washable filter ~$60)
The cabin filter requires a little gymnastics though is just peeling back carpet unsnapping 2 tabs pull out old one push in new one resnap tabs put back carpet (use saved funds for a good antimicrobial element ~$40)
All presuming on starts with nothing no tools etc
Do you have the high flow air filter in your CLA? If yes, which brand? aFe? dry or oiled?
 

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Do you have the high flow air filter in your CLA? If yes, which brand? aFe? dry or oiled?
Bought the k&n first - knee jerk reaction from old tuning days
Then realized our inlet path sensors dont like the film accumulation over time (recall all those issues) so hunted down a dry element
afe 3110240
soak and rinse every 5k such a blessing it catches a lot of fine crap too
much better response
 

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2016 CLA 250 2.0L 4matic
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Bought the k&n first - knee jerk reaction from old tuning days
Then realized our inlet path sensors dont like the film accumulation over time (recall all those issues) so hunted down a dry element
afe 3110240
soak and rinse every 5k such a blessing it catches a lot of fine crap too
much better response
I currently have a K&N— I recall cleaning and re-oiling it about a year ago and the car ran like crap for a week before getting back to normal. Good to know there is a reason for it. I'm now tempted to get the aFe dryflow filter now or go AEM CAI if I feel like treating myself 🤑
 

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I currently have a K&N— I recall cleaning and re-oiling it about a year ago and the car ran like crap for a week before getting back to normal. Good to know there is a reason for it. I'm now tempted to get the aFe dryflow filter now or go AEM CAI if I feel like treating myself
Yup your oil density and outgas rate was too high
A high flow dry filter mimics the oem conditions
 

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Bought the k&n first - knee jerk reaction from old tuning days
Then realized our inlet path sensors dont like the film accumulation over time (recall all those issues) so hunted down a dry element
afe 3110240
soak and rinse every 5k such a blessing it catches a lot of fine crap too
much better response

So you are running the dry element air filter now? Do you recommend getting it over the factory paper filter? Is it worth the extra dollars?
 

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So you are running the dry element air filter now? Do you recommend getting it over the factory paper filter? Is it worth the extra dollars?
The moment it was announced at afe i got it ... been in use 6 yrs now. Got it at some intro sale i think $61.51 tax and ship. Original oem mann unit was air cleaned and kept as backup ... that mann thing has more pleats than you can shake dirt out of it
This afe will out last the car it seems ... once its washed and dried it looks like new. Just dont jet it with high flow water ... overnight soak and gentle back flush works well.
And the edge seal is damn good.
 

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The moment it was announced at afe i got it ... been in use 6 yrs now. Got it at some intro sale i think $61.51 tax and ship. Original oem mann unit was air cleaned and kept as backup ... that mann thing has more pleats than you can shake dirt out of it
This afe will out last the car it seems ... once its washed and dried it looks like new. Just dont jet it with high flow water ... overnight soak and gentle back flush works well.
And the edge seal is damn good.
Driving experience wise, any gains in response and also gas mileage?
 
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