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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello to All -

First, I would like to say what a great group this is, and so much useful information is put forth - it is very helpful - thanks to all!

I am writing this for mostly newer owners, owners who haven't done their own car maintenance previously, or those who just don't want to hand over the family gold for what is a relatively easy exercise.

I just performed what effectively would be the B Service for my 2015 CLA 4Matic. I took delivery in January 2015, and my original negotiations landed a 50% discount on the first 4 years of service visits, so the A and B services had been pre-paid and not ridiculously expensive..

Then I paid full price for an A service - Ouch!

Now (ok, back in February) it was time for a B Service... my rep gave me al la carte pricing -
"B service $455.20 (oil change) - Brake Fluid Flush $225.00 - Cabin Air Filter $150.00" ($830.20!)
But their website says cabin filter and brake fluid flush are included in B service - for $650.
With none of this adding up I asked "How much for just an oil change?" which is what was really needed...
"$185, but we won't reset the service counter..." ??? really???

So - after watching several different oil change videos for our CLA's, Engine Air Filter Changes and Cabin Air Filter Changes, I said "I used to do this for all my cars, how difficult can it be now?" and since I have been out of work for over 2 years (let's call it 'semi-retired'...) the importance to saving some money is there too, not to mention just understanding the components of the car a bit better.

It was all much easier than I thought it would be!

After remembering that I actually have an oil extraction device (a manual pump - I use it on my sailboat's diesel engine every Fall to change the oil for winterization), I ordered the oil filter, the engine air filter and the cabin air filter (all Mahle parts) and 6 qts of Mobile 1 0W40 from Rock Auto.
Be AWARE - the car takes only 5.9 qts - DO NOT OVERFILL! MB Service overfilled my car (they charged me for 7 or 8 quarts) and it caused a very annoying squeaking sound that was the crankshaft ventilation tube and gasket bulging from the increase in pressure and rubbing against something (several posts on this site led me to the conclusion and I got MB to fix it under my extended warranty for no charge - it took them a week though, even though I told them exactly what to look for and do!).

I did the oil change (my pump pulled all of the oil thru the dipstick in about 5 minutes), oil filter replacement - Note - someone had posted about markiing the oil filter housing/cap - this was a GREAT suggestion! Using a silver Sharpie I marked a spot on the cap/housing and a spot opposite it on the engine to align the marks... counted the turns need to get it off, and did exactly the same amount of turns (5) to get the cap/housing tight (but not overtightened) and lined up with the marks, WITHOUT CRACKING THE CAP!
SLOWLY filled the engine with fresh oil, leaving the dipstick out so air could find it's way out of the engine.
Started her up, ran it for a while -took it for a drive later - all good! Not a drop of oil outside of the engine.
Had to buy a new 1/2" socket wrench, 10" extender, and 27MM socket (the correct size to fit the cap) to remove the cap (this cost about $39US at Advanced Auto) - I will have these forever though.
The oil filter ($7.41) and oil cost ($36.28) totaled $43.69US ... remember, MB wanted $185 for this service.
This took me maybe 45 mins, because I really took my time, and was recording the entire process.

The engine air filter box is held closed by 4 Torx #25 bolts (I bought a set of Torx sockets on Amazon shortly after I bought the car because every bolt on the car is Torx...). Came right out with a standard socket wrench and Torx fitting. The engine air filter was fairly dirty, even the box below the filter had a pile of sand like debris and other crap in it... Used a vacuum to pull all the debris out of the box.
Popped the old filter out, the new in, and closed the box. Done. 10 minutes because I had to vacuum out the filter box.
Air Filter Cost - $18.76US

Cabin Air Filter - This is located up behind the dashboard on the passenger side, behind the carpeting (sounds a lot more difficult than it really is!). some of the videos I viewed say you need to take the cover off of the auxiliary battery housing to get the cabin air filter cover off... some didn't mention it. So I tried it without removing the battery, worked fine without removing the battery cover. Popped the cover off the filter box, removed the old filter (looked to be in decent shape) slide the new filter in, closed the box, pressed the carpet back in place. Done. 5 minutes.
Cabin Air Filter Cost - $27.79US

All told, I spent $116US, including shipping and tax, on quality parts (not including the new 1/2" socket set-up or the Torx sockets), and maybe 1 1/2 hours (because I was also recording the process). Not the $650 MB was going to charge, and I didn't have to drive there (45 mins each way) wait, and hope they didn't overfill the engine oil or over inflate my tires (they do that every time!), and I learned more about my car!

I may post the video at some point - let me know if you want to see them.

Oh - and I was able to reset the service counter easily (the instructions have been posted a few times in the forum)!

This is really a very straight forward and simple process to do... if YOU TAKE YOUR TIME!

I need to have my brakes replaced soon (I have 45,000 miles on the original brakes) as a very slight pulse is evident when initially applying the brakes at highway speeds - but no squealing indicators yet. I will have the brake fluid flush/exchange done then - by a reputable MB service house (using only OEM parts) that is not the dealership... quote is almost $400 less than the dealership...

Happy motoring!
 

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Congratulations on your DIY venture. If you plan to continue doing DIY on your car, also invest in a torque wrench, especially for the oil filter cap. If you follow specification, it's nearly impossible to crack the plastic cap.

Brake pad replacement is also very staightforward for the fronts and just one extra step for the rears (need to retract the electronic parking brake via menu). The slight pulse may be from the brake pads and/or from the rotors.

Brake flush is recommended every 20k miles or 2 years. It's also a relatively easy DIY. You just need the right tools for it like a bleeder kit. You can get the brake fluid from your local MB dealership.

DIY saves you tons of money, plus the satifsaction of knowing your car's ins and outs better than your trusted mechanic.
 

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Good for you!
So far still under $2k for maintenance on my 14
despite all sorts of stuff
think the most expensive bit were the tires
Now upgrades and tinkering are another matter ... heh
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Congratulations on your DIY venture. If you plan to continue doing DIY on your car, also invest in a torque wrench, especially for the oil filter cap. If you follow specification, it's nearly impossible to crack the plastic cap.

Brake pad replacement is also very staightforward for the fronts and just one extra step for the rears (need to retract the electronic parking brake via menu). The slight pulse may be from the brake pads and/or from the rotors.

Brake flush is recommended every 20k miles or 2 years. It's also a relatively easy DIY. You just need the right tools for it like a bleeder kit. You can get the brake fluid from your local MB dealership.

DIY saves you tons of money, plus the satifsaction of knowing your car's ins and outs better than your trusted mechanic.
Thank you Picard!
It was time to get back to doing some things myself.
I have a torque wrench for my sailboat... just figured if I marked the cap, counted the turns, I would be able to put it back exaclty where it started (from when MB did the last oil change) and it worked perfectly.

As far as doing the brakes (I did them years ago on previous cars - learned how in high-school auto shop) this I will leave to the pros... for multiple reasons - I don't have a jack, or stands, I have a 'parking space' not my own garage, and this is something I am willing to spend $'s on to have done properly for me.
I appreciate the input on the pulse! - the service garage that I contacted (they did great service on my brother-in-law's Mercedes for years) said the same thing - and that they would inspect thoroughly to determine what is still good and what needs to really be replaced. I will have them do the brake flush as well as I do not need to add to my collection of tools with my limited closet space (apartment living...).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Good for you!
So far still under $2k for maintenance on my 14
despite all sorts of stuff
think the most expensive bit were the tires
Now upgrades and tinkering are another matter ... heh
Thank you JMC!
I am a firm believer in DIY when possible, and within my scope of ability (or what I can learn from watching multiple YouTube videos!).
I have learned to do almost all repairs/improvements on my boat (mechanical/engine, and otherwise) which has saved me thousands, if not 10's of thousands over the years. A boat yard charges (prob same at car dealerships) for a job by the hours listed in a book... unless it goes over that time then they charge more. I have found that I can do most jobs in 1/3 of the time the yard would bill. And again, become more familiar with the boat so if something should go wrong while out on the water, I at least stand a chance of correcting the issue.

Tires - I am still loving the Vredestine Quatrac Pros I had put on last November. A much better ride, so much less road noise, than the original Pirelli P-Zero Neros!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes, please post your video.✅
Hi Geo K -
This is a link to the Oil Change videos - apologies as they are unedited.

This is the link to the Engine Air Filter change videos -

And this is a link to the Cabin Air Filter Change videos -

Hope these are helpful, and not too tedious...

Pk
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi Geo K -
This is a link to the Oil Change videos - apologies as they are unedited.

This is the link to the Engine Air Filter change videos -

And this is a link to the Cabin Air Filter Change videos -

Hope these are helpful, and not too tedious...

Pk

Apologies - the vids do not seem to line up in the correct order in the links to follow step by step so you will need to find the elasped time number on each and click in this order:

Engine oil change - .36, .49, 2:54, 1:01, 3:18. 3:20, 3:33, 2:14, 1:27

Engine Air Filter - 1:51, .21, 2:22, .54

Cabin Air Filter - .43, .50, .42, 2:32

Pk
 
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