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Front Brakes on CLA250 4Matic w/ Sport Pkg

5K views 10 replies 5 participants last post by  jmc 
#1 ·
Hey All,

Wanted to get some advice from this group on when (km or miles) they swapped out their front rotors and pads?
I'm at 52,000 km (32,000 miles) and am being prompted by the car to replace mine. Please share so I can have a benchmark!

Thank you.
5.5.
 
#2 ·
Hi 5.5. My message popped up at around the 50,000 kms mark as well, changed them out at the Stealership a couple of months ago, cost me an arm and a leg, around $1,200 AUD ($1,090 CAD).
 
#3 ·
I had my pads done only the first brake service around 26,000 miles and the second time around I got the rotors replaced along with the brakes at around 57,000. brakes was 150 and rotors and brakes I was charged 300.
 
#5 ·
Thanks everyone for the input!

@jmc - For sure, there's a lot of things that I fool around with, brakes aren't on that list. That being said, it's important to have a frame of reference when it comes to brake and rotor life. There could be a number of issues that cause premature wear and tear on these components, and getting an average from other owners is a good smell test to see if there are any issues that may have popped up.
 
#6 ·
Hey 5.5
Good point ... though from what I have gathered on here an oem set can last from 60k depending on whose car and what it goes through ... in your case at 32k your brakes had decent nominal exercise [emoji4]
The pad sensor may have kicked in though are your rotors still good? ie non scoring still thick enough >28mm no blued spots etc ... but then for the incremental cost against future headaches might as well change them too
Make sure the guide pins are reeeeeeally cleaned and lubed with the right stuff that doesnt gum up with heat and time

Mine are still oem ... and at about -1mm per 10k with 8mm usable left, and still ~29.8mm rotor thickness with no grooves, I think I will box them up as a backup when I yank them off and put on the new stuff (zimms and ceramics)
Though cuz I try not to use them much in typical driving, ever so often I do a max dive 70-0 on an empty off ramp just to make sure they still grab properly without drama nor shakes
 
#7 ·
@jmc - Thanks for sharing the above! It would be a blessing to be able to run an OEM setup for 60,000 miles! Haven't done a single track day and most of the car's mileage has been fairly open highway driving. I'm surprised they ended up toast so soon. My OEM pads were at about 2/32's, which is pretty much the bare minimum they can be before you get in to some really dangerous territory. The rotors didn't look too bad visually but when I ran my finger along the edge, there was a pretty large lip on them. Haven't swapped out my rears yet though.

As a replacement, I landed on a set of Zimmerman rotors with TRW pads. First time going aftermarket, but reviews on this combination have been pretty solid online. Let's see!
 
#8 ·
Yo 5.5 !
Wow no wonder the pad sensor is screaming! [emoji12]
If you are not heavy with your brakes and still have worn pads and lipped rotor better check the caliper guide pins carefully and how the pads fit. If anything binds in the slightest at room temp well you can imagine when things get hot what with the mixed metals in contact. But thats another story for another time. Just a slight slight dab of nongumming lube where the pad ears touch the caliper slots, and a smear of high temp slippery stuff like sylglyde on the pins, plus good dust boot seals and cleaned up piston boot seals should do the trick.
I also got the zimm rotors (good god those things are so heavy they ripped through the shipping box!) though to my surprise they are not the oems ... the coating and the hole patterns are different. Guess my oems were sourced elsewhere ... meyle or metzger etc
 
#10 ·
My replace brake pads reminder came on around 70k miles, but they still had around 4mm or so left. I ended up getting another 40k miles out of it though, and when I changed them they were between 1-2mm. I think the computer is set up with the sensors to send the message with plenty of warning. My rotors were still good, and it cost me roughly $65 for just the pads...easy job to do yourself.
 
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