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HG MOTORSPORTS MERCEDES-BENZ CLA250 / CLA45 AMG PERFORMANCE ENGINE DAMPER



199.99 + FREE Shipping

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The HG Motorsports Mercedes-Benz CLA250 / CLA45 AMG Performance Engine Damper is the best way to minimize engine movement and improve traction without major impact to NVH (noise, vibration, harmonics) in the cabin. Mercedes-Benz manufactured the stock engine damper to diminish the vibrations and noise that come from the engine. The compromise for comfort is performance loss due to engine movement. The CLA250 / CLA45 Performance Engine Damper uses a uniquely improved structure and higher durometer bushing to reduce the engine movement.



PRODUCT FEATURES


  • [*=left]Works on both the CLA250 and the CLA45 AMG
    [*=left]CNC milled from solid block of 6061 billet aluminum for ultimate strength
    [*=left]55 durometer rubber bushing to reduce engine movement without transferring NVH (noise, vibration, harmonics) to the cabin.
    [*=left]Retains OEM shape and adjustability for factory fittment
    [*=left]Reduction in engine movement helps prevent wheel hop and transfer power to the pavement more effectively
    [*=left]Prevents stress on the transmission by ensuring that the driveline is always in alignment.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Engine movement doesn't have to be a part of driving life. An Engine Damper is the best way to minimize engine movement and improve traction without major impact to NVH. (noise, vibration, harmonics)

The HGMotorsports‬ Performance Engine Damper uses a uniquely improved structure and higher durometer bushing to reduce the engine movement in your CLA.


Order yours here.
 

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Just to make sure I completely understand, the use of the damper improves traction? Snow and rain? If you can tell us more about the benefits in terms of handling and traction will be great. I think the part looks great. The OEM part actually looks fairly weak.
 

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Just to make sure I completely understand, the use of the damper improves traction? Snow and rain? If you can tell us more about the benefits in terms of handling and traction will be great. I think the part looks great. The OEM part actually looks fairly weak.

Great question and I am happy to answer! In everything that has to do with inertia and other methods of force efficiency is everything. See, as your car accelerates a lot of energy is sent throughout the vehicle resulting in things like engine movement and drivetrain movement. Every car comes with methods to combat this, but they are typically designed to be 2 things - Cheap and quiet. Why? Because typical consumers don't wants a car that makes excess noise and being it is not a pure bred race car, going nuts on them doesn't make sense from a manufacturer standpoint.

Enter aftermarket! The HG Motorsports Engine Damper is designed to reduce excess vibration from the engine caused by acceleration by absorbing and better distributing it throughout the car, without sacrificing the sound quality as some aftermarket options might like stiffer motor mounts. (Very stiff motor mounts are great for race use, but can cause a lot of engine bay noise transfer on daily drivers).By reducing excess movement by your engine, the power being put out is better directed to the ground and things like wheel hop and traction. It smoothes everything out while reducing stress on your transmission system. Its something that for a low price can provide immediate benefit, while being able to "grow" with your car by becoming more and more effective as you add other modifications to increase horsepower.
 

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How much does this help with traction for the front tires? Does this void warranty in any way?

I am curious because I have the TMC tune that has added extra power, however 0-60 has not increased as much as I would like because I don't get the traction from the beginning. I would love to add the hg Motorsport cold air intake and exhaust, however without a solution to fix the traction issues... It seems pointless!

If you have any other tips on increasing traction and performance as a result I would greatly appreciate it !
Thank you
 

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How much does this help with traction for the front tires? Does this void warranty in any way?

I am curious because I have the TMC tune that has added extra power, however 0-60 has not increased as much as I would like because I don't get the traction from the beginning. I would love to add the hg Motorsport cold air intake and exhaust, however without a solution to fix the traction issues... It seems pointless!

If you have any other tips on increasing traction and performance as a result I would greatly appreciate it !
Thank you
I just got mine yesterday, as soon as I install it I will let you know if there is a tangible improvement. One thing I will tell you, the part does seem to work just by the design basics on it, but, as always he proof is in the pudding.
ImageUploadedByMercedes CLA Forum1409798140.976325.jpg
 

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How much does this help with traction for the front tires? Does this void warranty in any way?

I am curious because I have the TMC tune that has added extra power, however 0-60 has not increased as much as I would like because I don't get the traction from the beginning. I would love to add the hg Motorsport cold air intake and exhaust, however without a solution to fix the traction issues... It seems pointless!

If you have any other tips on increasing traction and performance as a result I would greatly appreciate it !
Thank you
This is flat out insane. I'm sorry, but the difference you will notice with this mod will be negligible unless you take your car to the drag strip every other week... MAYBE then you might notice the tiniest difference. And even then you won't really start noticing any difference until you replace ALL of the bushings. Oh and btw, by keeping the drivetrain 'in line' sure you are forcing more power through, but technically you are transmitting more energy into the mechanical bits as opposed to the softer OEM rubber bushings... They're not just designed to be cheap lol. In reality, replace all the rubber with a harder martial and it would make a small difference, but also put more wear on the mechanical parts of the drivetrain.

People who have built track cars and spend a lot of time tracking/racing their vehicles would probably see the use of a modification such as this, but for 99% of the rest, this is purely a marketing gimmick that will get people who know no better to drop a few dollars on an mount. And I'm not harping on you the vendor here by no means; you're here to sell the products you carry and that's fine. But from an actual logical perspective, this modification is not even close to being worth it for 99.9% of the drivers of these cars, and those drivers will never ever notice a difference.

Anyone who wants to legitimately increase traction; change the tires. Simple as that. Get rid of the poor OEM tires on the car, and install some Michelin Pilot Super Sports. May be pricey, but they last long and they have unbelievable grip.
 

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You have a good point on the tires, but bushings do make a solid difference in terms if handling. I have a CLA with original rubber and I have seen the CLA HG spec in person and I can tell you first hand that the engine movement is less between vehicles. The engine mount will not prevent slipping the tires but it will diminish wheel hop and engine movement, it will benefit traction but it will not solve the tire meets the rubber situation. All enthusiasts mode and tune in steps, until you get the feel and handling you are looking for. Other good vehicles like the WRX or your AMG make a point on having higher durometer rubber or curled bushings because if the handling advantages. I was a suspensions engineer before moving to Marketing and Sales and I can tell you that rubber does make a difference in traction, articulation and handling. This particular mount is one step, and it will enhance any changes you make downstream, personally I will go for a set of Toyo's Proxes on ADV1 or HRE wheels.
 

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I just got mine yesterday, as soon as I install it I will let you know if there is a tangible improvement. One thing I will tell you, the part does seem to work just by the design basics on it, but, as always he proof is in the pudding.
View attachment 12709
Anxious to hear your experience with it ! Thanks for the review it is much appreciated and will determine whether I purchase or not.
 

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How much does this help with traction for the front tires? Does this void warranty in any way?

I am curious because I have the TMC tune that has added extra power, however 0-60 has not increased as much as I would like because I don't get the traction from the beginning. I would love to add the hg Motorsport cold air intake and exhaust, however without a solution to fix the traction issues... It seems pointless!

If you have any other tips on increasing traction and performance as a result I would greatly appreciate it !
Thank you
Take a look at this video, this will give you a rough idea of the car in full acceleration as it goes trough the gears and how much tire slip and wheel hop you can minimize with the engine damper. Just to clarify, the engine damper is not a silver bullet, but it will help you control what you deliver and make sure it goes all to the ground, every time the engine swings back or forward the traction gets affected just enough to slip and once you go over the edge you have wait to get solid rubber to asphalt contact. I plan to install mine this weekend so I will test it and provide some subjective feedback.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2MNio1t33Mg&feature=youtu.be
 

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Take a look at this video, this will give you a rough idea of the car in full acceleration as it goes trough the gears and how much tire slip and wheel hop you can minimize with the engine damper. Just to clarify, the engine damper is not a silver bullet, but it will help you control what you deliver and make sure it goes all to the ground, every time the engine swings back or forward the traction gets affected just enough to slip and once you go over the edge you have wait to get solid rubber to asphalt contact. I plan to install mine this weekend so I will test it and provide some subjective feedback.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2MNio1t33Mg&feature=youtu.be
I purchased my HG motorsport air intake and the engine damper today... Combined with my TMC ecu tune I am anxious to see the results. When HG finishes their downpipe exhaust system I will purchase that as well
 

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A couple of things worth doing while you are in there working on the front end of the car. Take out the drivers side intake block after you remove the stock box but before you put the HG system. To do this use the instruction on how to install the genII illuminated star, the instructions are well laid out in that posting, it will make a serious difference in fuel economy, the car will sound a bit louder if you stand outside in front of the engine but you will hardly notice the sound if you are inside, the other thing to do is to get the E14 and E18 torx sockets for the engine damper, it is easy to change it but make sure you have them, I was stick mid way when I realized I didn't had the E18. I had to put back together the joint and run to the store to buy one socket. Tight everything back to 58 newton meters.
 

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I purchased my HG motorsport air intake and the engine damper today... Combined with my TMC ecu tune I am anxious to see the results. When HG finishes their downpipe exhaust system I will purchase that as well
One thing to check before you remove the stock system, verify if this clamp is tight to torque before you remove the system, I had problems with it as it gets loose. After you install the system check it after a week of work to make sure all joints and clamps are tight. ImageUploadedByMercedes CLA Forum1410230544.376450.jpg
 

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A couple of things worth doing while you are in there working on the front end of the car. Take out the drivers side intake block after you remove the stock box but before you put the HG system. To do this use the instruction on how to install the genII illuminated star, the instructions are well laid out in that posting, it will make a serious difference in fuel economy, the car will sound a bit louder if you stand outside in front of the engine but you will hardly notice the sound if you are inside, the other thing to do is to get the E14 and E18 torx sockets for the engine damper, it is easy to change it but make sure you have them, I was stick mid way when I realized I didn't had the E18. I had to put back together the joint and run to the store to buy one socket. Tight everything back to 58 newton meters.
Wow thanks for the very useful info! I checked out the genII illuminated star DIY and will definitely remove that. Now that the genII stays on always and seems very easy to install I may actually purchase that as well! And I unfortunately checked my socket set and it had only the E14 as well not the E18 so I went and picked that up today! I only have an analog torque wrench not digital so I cannot hit exact decimal places for the install, for example I can only hit 43 ft-lb torque instead of 42.8 ft-lb... do you think that would be a problem?

And thanks for the advice about the clamp!! I will check that out for sure ! Great info to know and much appreciated.
 

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Wow thanks for the very useful info! I checked out the genII illuminated star DIY and will definitely remove that. Now that the genII stays on always and seems very easy to install I may actually purchase that as well! And I unfortunately checked my socket set and it had only the E14 as well not the E18 so I went and picked that up today! I only have an analog torque wrench not digital so I cannot hit exact decimal places for the install, for example I can only hit 43 ft-lb torque instead of 42.8 ft-lb... do you think that would be a problem?

And thanks for the advice about the clamp!! I will check that out for sure ! Great info to know and much appreciated.
The torque can be 43 with no problem at all. It is better over than under, I think in imperial measurement the spec reads 42.7 so 43 is perfectly ok. It seems you are going to spend a good time on the front of the car so take some time to remove all the bugs on the top section of the charge cooler with a really soft tooth brush, mine had a nice colony of bugs living there so I gently remove them. Also when you are working through the hole of the grille be careful not to hit the radiator core , it gets damaged very easily, I twisted a few on while trying to remove the block off because I didn't t remove the tabs first.
 

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Just bite the bullet and buy hre wheels, solved my problem with wheel hop and I'm using the factory continental tires
 

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Just bite the bullet and buy hre wheels, solved my problem with wheel hop and I'm using the factory continental tires
Out of curiosity, are the HRE's lighter than the amg's you originally had? I take it you were using the 19 inch multi spoke black with the machined lip? I have been thinking about the HRE but in using 17 in wheels so I will need new rubber and the wheel.
 

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Out of curiosity, are the HRE's lighter than the amg's you originally had? I take it you were using the 19 inch multi spoke black with the machined lip? I have been thinking about the HRE but in using 17 in wheels so I will need new rubber and the wheel.
World of difference. No I had the factory cla45 amg grey 18s with the twin 5 spoke design that weighted in close to 26lbs, I bought the hre R40's that weight 18.3 for a 18x8.5 wheel. But hre only start at 18 inch wheel sizes, they don't carry 17s. Here's a pic of the difference
 

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World of difference. No I had the factory cla45 amg grey 18s with the twin 5 spoke design that weighted in close to 26lbs, I bought the hre R40's that weight 18.3 for a 18x8.5 wheel. But hre only start at 18 inch wheel sizes, they don't carry 17s. Here's a pic of the difference
I admit it, they do make the car better looking, the ones I'm in love with are the FF in Tarmac. Maybe after I'm done with the guts I will have to go for a set of those. Excellent choice indeed.
 

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World of difference. No I had the factory cla45 amg grey 18s with the twin 5 spoke design that weighted in close to 26lbs, I bought the hre R40's that weight 18.3 for a 18x8.5 wheel. But hre only start at 18 inch wheel sizes, they don't carry 17s. Here's a pic of the difference
Do you think changing the rims will help more with traction ? Or changing the rubber? My original thought was to change the tires before the rims for traction.
 
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