We use shell as factory fill at my engine plant, pretty good product. I live in Chicago and I decided to use Total fully synthetic 5w-30 during this winter. 0w-40 will flow even better and protect the engine under severe load or acceleration. You made the right choice for your region.
In the US I would use Amsoil EFO 0W-40 100% Amsoil Synthetic oil. The biggest issue with oil and high temps of a turbo is the heat and fuel dilution by direct injections.. I use what I think is the best, but we all have our own best choice?
Mercedes recommends a lot of different things, eg. Replacement of the gearbox oil every 100000 km / 60 months (in my engine OM 651 CDI gearbox 724003) I'm changing every 50000 km and is very well. The CLA 45 AMG change every 50000 km / 36 months naturally, but in Poland there is not much CLA 45AMG :wall: Also the recommend MILLERMATIC ATF DCT-DSG
Greetings
I use the 5W-40 but if I was above the US I would use 0W-40 unless you use 100% Amsoil Synthetic oil. The biggest issue with oil and high temps of a turbo is the heat and fuel dilution by direct injections.. I use what I think is the best, but we all have our own best choice?
I also use the Vacuum extractor to do mine and I have 2 different oils to go with for 10K + service. I now have DCT Fluid too. I am also of the mindset every 50,000 miles or 75,000km on the Transmission and DCT Fluid change. not just a pan drop.. Dealer wants $410 US and fluids were $188 alone. I beat that by $80 AND 100% Synthetic.
Rockauto for the filter, $12.00 shipped to my door. Easy and best part is no under car needed!
OK ... so it's been a while and hopefully someone has tried this LiquiMoly stuff? Though as of 2017 it's still
only listed as MB 229.3 even though their website selection for the CLA250/45 is still this one ... still curious
about this one!
I am not doubting the high quality and performance of the Amsoil synthetics. But it is quite a bit more expensive than the other reputed manufacturers.
Question is: for the period of ownership of between 5-8 years, would that really be a significant difference in the fuel consumption, wear durability, cold starts, that warrant the cost difference over that period of time? IMHO, no...
but If I own an exotic like a ferrari, or bentley, and plan to keep the car for years on, and cost is not an issue (i.e. money actually grows on trees "figuratively speaking"), yes, I would buy the best synthetic out there, and Amsoil would be one of them.
Well, I think every 3K miles oil change is a bit over the top, but if you would like to do that , sure, it will be great for your engine, as it keeps the "fresh" oil in there, and engine wear will be significantly reduced. I do an oil/filter change every 6K and I use either Pennzoil Euro 0W40 or Mobil 0W40, which are meets the MB specs.
Again, regarding whether you should buy Amsoil, as I indicated in my post, it really depends on whether you intend to keep the car for a long period of time or if you own an exotic car or if money grows on your tree. Or if you are one of those more "anal" car owners that want to have that peace of mind knowing that you have one of the most expensive synthetics running through your engine (which "theoretically" equates to zero wear).
Mobil , pennzoil , even quaker state synthetics, have all been stress tested in race cars, and endurance stress tests. They will provide more than adequate wear/tear protection for your regular daily driver, even if it is a mercedes.
Assuming you are one of the typical car owners that change their cars every 5-8 years, then you will not reap any cost benefits by using Amsoil when you sell it.
Hmmm ... if really every 3k miles could use a good long mileage base oil to offset costs ... but still need that $10 filter each time?
I never look at standard oil pricing so not sure if those are <<50% of synthetics but if not then the extra work effort and filter cost would kill the 3k concept ...
Actually I leave my oil filter in there when I do the oil change at 6K, and only change out the oil filter at 12K. Since I have the maintenance service program with my CLA, I let my dealer change out the oil/filter at 12K, and I change out the oil at every 6K.
Oil change schedule: 6K (DIY, only oil), 12K, (Dealer Oil/filter), 18K (DIY, oil only), 24K (Dealer, oil/filter), 30K (DIY, oil only), 36K (Dealer, oil/filter) ...etc...
I agree ... and the filter is really easy to change out, just that, those filters are made to last 12K (or even more), hence my decision to only change the filter ant 12K.
I have seen several of this dudes videos ... pretty cool treks though the pov almost gets one seasick ??
Among a few other (uncommon) no-no's, he did forget to use a polymer socket (or taped the hex socket) for the oil filter cap to prevent grip edge rounding and stress cracks ... especially if a torque wrench is not used to reclose the cap ... thermoplastics are light and all but not very forgiving at the edge of their usage curve.
Surprised he did not evac the oil instead of the drain trick ... though one in every few evac sessions should be a drain.
common Jmc.
I hand tight oil filter and never a problem never even come close to losing up, he knows what he is doing. i 'd say do what he do and you ll be good.
no need to critic him may be watch more vids.
C
On the contrary ... I like his shows encourages folks to get more involved and associated with their cars.
For general distribution and common supplies availability these routines are fine.
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