Mercedes CLA Forum banner

41 - 50 of 50 Posts

10,785 Posts
Torque wrench goes on pretty much every bolt on these cars ... especially the low torque ones.
BTW try to do the customary star pattern for the lockdown ... the gasket has a metal crush limiter and if one corner gets hit first then with thermal and mechanical cycling over time it will weep much like any other critical gasket

4 Posts
Finished it June 2017

Many thanks. I will post when I get done. Paul

July 2017 update:

I got it done! Here is an update on the prior task list. Sorry, no photos.

Quote Originally Posted by springer3 View Post
I just completed my 30,000 mile service. I had 10k and 20k done at the dealer and was not happy with quality or cost.

you will need:
at least 3 quarts lf transmission fluid or ATP-oil. Edit: I drained over 5 liters. Use only MB-approved fluid. Pelican sells it
Transmission pan Gasket
Tranmission Fluid filter
new Torx bolt washer

1. Lift front tires (2 jacks or 2 jack stands)
2. Bottom left of your transmission there is a drain plug that requires the torqx key.
3. Open it up but make sure have pan underneath.
Edit: remove control module clipped to air filter housing
Edit: disconnect inlet air temp (IAT) sensor - on air cleaner housing near coupling to intake.
4. Take out your intake box, easier to unbolt tranny pan which sits side ways. Edit: remove hose-clamp on intake suction. Box will lift straight up (no fasteners)
5. Unbolt 8 torqx screws around the pan (3 on top, 1 each side, and 3 on the bottom). Edit: a 1/4" ratchet, Torq socket, and 3 sizes of extension are needed. It is almost impossible without good light and some patience. I could do this step in 15 minutes next time. It took over an hour to figure out how to do this.
6. Once screws are unbolted, wiggle it around until loose (tranny fluid will continue to flow). Edit: wiggle from top until it gets stuck, then wiggle from bottom until it gets stuck. Repeat until it comes out from bottom.
7. Once tranny pan is out, you will see the tranny filter, remove it carefully so fluid doesn't go everywhere.
8. Clean tranny pan and insert new gasket.
9. Wipe down excessive tranny fluid (all around)
10. Insert new tranny filter
11. Insert tranny pan w/new gasket and start bolting it top to bottom. Edit: it goes in much easier than it comes out.
12. Screw back the toqrx screw on the bottom w/new washer.
13. Once all in place, break the transmission fluid thing (where you normally insert the tranny fluid stick)
14. Carefully push down pin w/small flat head screw driver... and try to catch it so you don't loose it.
15. Using long funnel, add 3 quarts of tranny fluid (or how many quarts of tranny fluid you had). Edit: I drained 5 liters and that is what I added. I purchased the dip stick from Pelican. Need warm fluid to check the level correctly (oil volume changes with temperature.
16. Put back intake box
17. Start car and idle for 5 mins and you are good to go.... Edit: Level should be corrected based on dip stick when fluid reaches 40 C (106 F).

This is doable with proper tools and reasonable mechanical skill.
Theres also another filter right on top of the tranny pan. Whats the torque specs when tightening the bolts for the tranny pan?

272 Posts
It appears that the "additive" listed in this thread (001-989-94-03-09, now superseded to 001-989-94-03-11) is and anti-foaming agent per my dealer parts guy. Said that have 3 in stock, and it is a syringe when he went to look at it, so they must be using it. Pricey too at $60.
41 - 50 of 50 Posts