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CLA45 C117. Bleeding coolant system. Impossible?

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4K views 4 replies 2 participants last post by  Amg2Turbo  
A
#1 ·
Intercooler tank return line perished while car was on. So replaced but obviously air got into the system. I get a rushing water sound when braking.

When trying to bleed with the cap off, the car never gets up to temp. Tops out at around 80c with the cap off. So can't get up to the temp when the fans turn on and opening of thermostat. Then I would proceed to squeeze hoses. I cannot see a bleed nipple on the thermostat?

With that being said, is the only way to get out of the cooling system is by sucking out air with a pressure fill kit then refill with said kit? Or has someone done it another way?
 
#4 ·
compressors are pretty cheap ... good for tires, blowing off water from the nooks and crannies after wash ... cleaning parts ...
and you get to vacuum drain your coolant to boot :cool:
dont think anything gets yanked off ... just attach the adapter to the expansion tank and go to town
 
A
#5 ·
jmc said:
compressors are pretty cheap ... good for tires, blowing off water from the nooks and crannies after wash ... cleaning parts ...
and you get to vacuum drain your coolant to boot :cool:
dont think anything gets yanked off ... just attach the adapter to the expansion tank and go to town
Click to expand...
I asked a garage about this, he said the coolant system on vehicle is self bleeding. Which I can see now, theres an air breather hose from the top of the radiator to the expansion tank.

I believe the rushing sound when braking at slow speeds is actually the Textar semi metallic brake pads. Might change to Ceramic if I can find a brand that make them, and if I want to bother changing the pads again. If car gives me no other issues for a few months will probably do it.
 
#2 ·
once its not hydraulic the higher level air pockets might be difficult to get out ... what with all those strength ribs so no path is smooth wall ... and those darn pockets may cause hot spots which means localized annealing and then differential material stress etc etc etc
the vacuum extract and refill would be the safest way
kits are not too expensive mine was like around 85 yankie dollars ... cute process ... :cool:
 
A
#3 ·
jmc said:
once its not hydraulic the higher level air pockets might be difficult to get out ... what with all those strength ribs so no path is smooth wall ... and those darn pockets may cause hot spots which means localized annealing and then differential material stress etc etc etc
the vacuum extract and refill would be the safest way
kits are not too expensive mine was like around 85 yankie dollars ... cute process ... :cool:
Click to expand...
Yep seems like needs must. Any other experiences are welcome.

Is there an easy way to drain coolant without front end removal or should I just use the pressure kit to vacuum out the coolant. oh forgot I need an air compressor too. Might just take it to the garage. Not often ill use an air compressor so not sure if worth the investment.
 
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